Wimbledon’s All-White Dress Code: History, Rebellion & the Case for Change
Carlos Alcaraz defeated Novak Djoković in the men's final at Wimbledon 2023 // Flickr: Daniel.Cooper850
Imagine stepping onto Centre Court, outfitted entirely in crisp white, from head to toe. Sounds timeless, right? That’s the essence of Wimbledon’s famed all-white dress code, a court fashion-focused tradition stretching back nearly 150 years. But while this rule honors the tournament's history, it's also sparked rebellions and fresh debates. In this post, we'll explore the origins of the tradition, stand-out wardrobe controversies, voices calling for reform and why today’s evolving world of tennis-inspired style suggests that Wimbledon might be ready for a refresh.
Victorian Beginnings: The Roots of Wimbledon’s White Attire
When the inaugural Wimbledon rolled out in 1877, white was the unequivocal uniform. This choice wasn’t about fashion, it was grounded in Victorian-era propriety. Darker fabrics showed sweat stains in an era when physical exertion was seen as improper, especially for women. As a result, white became both practical and symbolic, representing cleanliness, discipline, and decorum at a time when sports were still bound by strict social norms.
Australian players Lew Hoad (left) & Ken Rosewall (right) playing a doubles match at the Wimbledon Championships // GetArchive.net
In 1963, Wimbledon formalized this emerging aesthetic by codifying a rule that players must wear "predominantly white" attire, with trims restricted to a single centimeter. The code enforced consistency, helped preserve the tournament’s revered image and distinguished it from other major events.
Rule Books vs. Rebellions: Notable Dress‑Code Defections
Over the decades, Wimbledon’s rigid style mandate has been tested and sensationalized by players daring enough to express individuality:
Gussie Moran (1949): She shocked spectators by wearing lace-trimmed underwear beneath her dress, leading to immediate backlash
Anne White (1985): Her white bodysuit was deemed too revealing and resulted in swift dress code enforcement
Andre Agassi (Late 1980s–1990s): Refused to play at Wimbledon for several years due to the strict all-white dress code, calling it “archaic.” He only returned in 1991 after adapting his style.
Tatiana Golovin (2007): Wore red shorts under her dress—sparking debate and prompting the All England Club to reinforce undergarment rules.
Serena Williams (2016): Wore a cream-colored trench coat during warm-ups. While she removed it before play, it still sparked controversy for not adhering to the all-white policy.
Roger Federer & Venus Williams: Federer's orange-soled shoes (2013) and Venus's pink sports bra (2017) each triggered direct warnings
Nick Kyrgios (2015 & 2022): Fined multiple times for wearing non-white headbands and sneakers with colorful accents during and after matches, calling the rule "stupid" in press interviews.
Novak Djokovic (2023): Allowed to wear a knee brace, showing how medical need can momentarily override purity rules
Pushback from Within: Tradition vs. Expression
Modern players are increasingly vocal about the limitations imposed by the code. Andre Agassi famously boycotted Wimbledon from 1988 to 1990, citing the dress code as outdated. He returned only after Wimbledon allowed some flexibility. Billie Jean King has been outspoken in calling the rule a “total mistake” that hampers player expression and merchandising opportunities, a perspective shared across generations. The impact of underwear and garment scrutiny on female athletes sparked discussions about mental and physical well-being—Wimbledon eventually allowed dark undershorts in 2023, a nod to evolving understanding of inclusivity.
Last year, Heather Watson said last year that she was delighted that Wimbledon have relaxed its strict dress code to ease the stress of women’s periods. "When Wimbledon announced that about the under-shorts I was so happy because it makes such a big difference," Watson said. "I speak openly about my period and being on my period. I don't think it's a taboo subject. I would love for people to talk about it more, especially women in sport."
Coco Gauff at Wimbledon 2025 // AP News
Incremental Progress: Tradition Meets the 21st Century
While Wimbledon remains committed to its heritage, gradual policy shifts hint at change. Starting in 2023, players were allowed dark undershorts and minimal colored armbands or shoe accents to reflect medical and practical needs—demonstrating that flexibility is possible without changing the aesthetic core. Meanwhile, King Charles III’s 2025 decision to make white optional at Buckingham Palace’s court underlines broader shifts away from rigid dress codes in prestigious spaces. In contrast, other Grand Slams openly embrace expressive and branded attire, underscoring Wimbledon's increasingly anomalous rules.
Tradition or Trailblazing? The Case for a Modern Wimbledon
The all-white rule offers clear benefits: it maintains a sense of ceremony, reduces distractions, and upholds a storied brand identity. It also reassures sponsors who favor consistency. However, as the tennis world embraces court-to-street style, athletes seek more creative and personal expression through their apparel. Loosening restrictions could reduce mental strain—particularly for women—and open revenue opportunities through personalized gear and branding. Importantly, this doesn’t need to undermine tradition. Allowing small color trims (up to two centimeters), optional alternate kits during early matches, and player names or numbers would signal modernity while retaining Crown Court elegance.
Wimbledon’s white dress code is a cornerstone of its identity, representing tradition, unity and ceremonial prestige. Yet the world of court fashion has shifted toward individuality, comfort and functional athleisure outfits. As tennis becomes more diverse and expressive, Wimbledon faces a choice: maintain an aesthetic barrier or thoughtfully adapt to balance ceremony with inclusivity. If tradition stands for anything, it stands for evolution, too.
What do you think? Is it time for Wimbledon to take a step forward?
